SIBO Dinghies & WorkBoats

DINGHY HISTORY:

The two, short [7'], white dinghies are OLD; bought new in the 1975's. They must be treated gently because to replace one would be costly if the club could free up the money (this for a less robust structure, and an inferior rower [designed for an engine].)

[By the end of 2001, all of the old 12' fiberglass dinghies had been scrapped or 'turned in'.]

In 2000, the club bought 3 new, aluminum jon boats [12'] for use as dinghies. Two of these were placed in service during the 2001 boating season; the other is stored as a spare. These use the same size & type of oar as the 7' dinghies. The aluminum dinghies are constructed with drain holes in the stern - make sure a plug is in place before launching.

All dinghies have a bow line (painter), usually 1/2" polypropelene (floats), and 1 or 2 stern lines (painters), usually 3/8" nylon.

Dinghies are provided primarily for transport to-and-from moored boats; or for patrons to attach, maintain, detach mooring lines to/from the mooring chain. During off-peak times [but not during weekends], one dinghy may be kept at a moored boat for a short time while EMERGENCY work is accomplished. However, be prepared to return the dinghy if other members need it.

Hint: if you have a problem needing many hours (or days), arrange with the Fleet Captain to get another dinghy in the water, temporarily.

OTHER DINGHY PROHIBITIONS:

Please do not use club dinghies for recreational rowing; or to teach children (who would not otherwise be permitted to visit your boat alone) to row. [You and your mature dependents, however, should learn to row these dinghies effectively.]

Also, the dinghies are not registered for use with any engine in Maryland; please do not try to mount one, or operate any dinghy with one [there are also safety considerations why the club doesn't want club dinghies operated under power].

And, dinghies should not be removed from the immediate vicinity of SIBO for any reason; get your own dinghy for cruising, partying, fishing, recreation, or whatever.

Each person in the dinghy must have a life jacket handy. It is Maryland law and Coast Guard regulation. The club has provided life jackets in the clubhouse for your use. Learn how to wear & adjust one.

Mandatory PFD Wearing law for children 7 years old and under on boats 21 feet and under (except if boat moored or anchored, or child is below deck or in an enclosed cabin) is in effect since June 1, 2001. Maryland Natural Resources Police (NRP) will be checking boats this size for compliance, and that there is one PFD per person, and a throwable PFD[not required in dinghy]. Check that you have the correct sizes, amounts & know how to put them on.

NRP will give a ticket if the current USCG regulations is violated. If there are no PFDs on-board, NRP will escort the boat to shore & terminate the voyage. If there are not enough PFDs on-board, NRP will issue a ticket, & may loan PFDs to allow the voyage to continue. If the proper sizes are not on board (infant, child, adult, etc.), NRP will issue a warning & provide instructions.

[Ref: Mariner Newspaper, 8 June 2001]

It is strongly recommended that children not be transported in the dinghies, because transfering from dinghy-to-boat-on-mooring is a hazardous activity. [The club has provided floating docks to make the boarding of crew and guests and gear safer.]

If you do take children in the dinghy, the children must wear a lifejacket of the proper size for their weight, and which is properly fitted and fastened). Don't take them out when the weather is not calm. [There should be an adult swimmer whose ONLY duty is to oversee the children.]

IN SHORT, DO NOT TAKE CHILDREN IN THE DINGHIES, PLEASE !

• Do not try to use the dinghy in strong winds or in high waves. If you do so, and the result is a swamped dinghy, possibly on the shore (or lost oar), please call a club officer for help.

• Do not overload the dinghy, and keep the bow trimmed UP. The new [12'] aluminum dinghies have capacity plates to provide guidance on loading. With both types, the passenger should be seated in the stern for safety, ease of handling & dinghy stability.

• Learn to row effectively [in calm or waves] without excessive force applied to the oarlocks.

• Carry & use a flashlight at night (Do not blind approaching boaters by aiming at their eyes). At all times, look out for passing boats and large wakes. Do not test the other boater's powers of observation and control.

• Keep the dinghy under control and observation when towing to or from your mooring; especially near floats & other boats.

  Note: Dinghies have been damaged because they were not untied from the float before the towing boat got underway, or when they became caught on a float as the towing boat was maneuvering.)

• Do not beach the dinghy; nor launch it over the beach. This is hazardous for the dinghy's bottom (and when there are onshore waves, leads to swamping of the dinghy). This is a very difficult concept to "sell" to patrons and officers (SIBA), experienced or not.

• Do not try to haul any dinghy onto a float. This is bad for the float. If the dinghy needs to be bailed, use a bucket. If it needs to be removed from the water, call the Fleet Captain.

• Report any injury, damage, or loss, please. It's best to call the Fleet Captain, in addition to entering a note in the watch's log. Another difficult concept for patrons - as evidence, the number of oars which are "discovered" to have broken oarlocks at the end of the season.

It is recommended that you practice rowing in calm water, and become proficient, before trying it in windy conditions, or large waves.

The basic procedure of rowing a club dinghy consists of:

• Sit erect with legs braced; grip oars with knuckles up and blades just clear of the water, and vertical to the water;

• Lean forward with arms extended in front of you; keep hands moving level (parallel to the water) so the blades do not contact the water [call this the return stroke];

• At maximum extent of the return stroke; raise hands, lowering the blades into the water; but only far enough to just immerse the blades;

• Pull back, straightening your body to vertical and pulling your hands towards your body; keep your hands moving parallel to the water so that the blades do not immerse any deeper (see note 1 below) [call this the power stroke];

• At the end of your power stroke, push your hands down to raise the blades out of the water;

• Repeat the sequence. (see Caution below)

Note 1: If you allow your hands to rise as you pull on the oars, the blades dig in and the oar tries to lift at the oarlock. Especially when you are pulling hard, as in waves or wind, this action will cause an oar to "jump-out", resulting in loss of control, or worse, loss of an oar, just at the worst time. So keep your hands moving in a level plane, and practice this before going out in waves or wind.

Note 2: The short dinghies [7'] and new aluminum [12'] dinghies use oars with a captive ring-type oarlock. Oars for both types are 6' long and have a rubber "stopper" to prevent the oars from being extended outward too far. When rowing, keep the oars extended outward as far as these "stoppers" will allow. This minimizes the angle of the oars with the water and makes them easier to control.

The oars are kept in the clubhouse. Don't leave them in the dinghies, especially not in the oarlocks.

Caution: In waves and wind, it is necessary to use more force to make progress. Do not try to move as fast as you would in calm water. It is also necessary to keep the blades higher on the return stroke. This, however, will make the wind more effective in slowing you down. [see note 3 below]

When moving into heavy wind or large waves, it may be necessary to move at an angle to your direct course into the wind or waves; this minimizes the force needed, and the amount of water washing over the bow. If, in spite of the above techniques, you continue to take on water, or the oars jump out of the oarlock frequently, IT IS TOO ROUGH TO USE THESE DINGHIES AND YOU SHOULD RETURN TO THE DOCK IMMEDIATELY. Extremely forceful rowing is thought to be the reason why oarlocks break.

Note 3: A technique, called feathering, allows you to row into the wind more effectively. Simply put, on the return stroke, with the blades in the air, turn the blades so the edge is towards the wind, thus reducing the force of the wind on you. This is not a technique that is easily picked up, or maintained when rowing hard in the wind and waves.

[Ref:Sail magazine, January 1997, p.44.]

Dinghies on "active duty" are kept in the water at all times for the convenience of owners of moored boats. We never pull dinghies onto floats, since that causes unanticipated damage to the floats. So special procedures must be followed to secure in-water dinghies to prevent other kinds of damage from contact with the floats or flooding. Even light on-shore winds will cause waves that make the floats & dinghies jump & collide.

FOR THE WATCH AND DINGHY USERS: The inner finger float (closest to shore) is designated by the SIBA Commodore as the location to tie dinghies. The sketch shows the recommended arrangement which includes the following details: The dinghy is secured across an intersection between the walkway and the finger float. Plenty of space is provided between the dinghy and the float (fore and aft) by adjusting the length of the lines attaching the dinghy. The fore and aft lines are pulled tight so that broadside wind and waves cannot force the dinghy against the float. In strong winds and high waves, try to orient the dinghy so that the bow points towards the waves. Make sure the dinghies are bailed and that they cannot touch any float or pipe. Note: It is recognized that mooring users going out for the day will often leave their dinghy tied to 2 adjacent cleats, parallel to one float, for convenience. Users should not do this when there is an onshore wind causing waves which will move the boats against the float. Further, when you come back from your daysail, even if early in the day, even if the water is calm, please (please) move the dinghy to an inner float location and tie it up as described above. When in doubt, contact the Fleet Captain.

When properly used, cleats make it possible to securely fasten a rope, yet the rope can be easily unfastened when desired. - even if the rope or line is under tension. Excessive line wraps, multiple knots or backwards half-hitches, defeat the purpose; actually making it more likely that the rope won't be adjusted when necessary to prevent damage. Learn to use cleats as they are intended to be used; Learn to tie the ropes to the cleats properly (so they may be easily released).

Keeping the dinghy bailed (dry) reduces loading on the ropes; it also reduces the possibility of waves flooding the inside.

Never launch or recover the dinghy over the beach or rocks.

And, do not leave any dinghy tied up to the floats at the ramp, nor to a boat at the dock, nor to an empty mooring.

Keeping the dinghies dry reduces stresses on the boats and on the ropes, reduces maintenance of wood & steel fittings, and provides a safe freeboard when rowing to the mooring. A bailer should be available in each dinghy. If not, create one by cutting the bottom from a capped-plastic bottle. If there is a lot of water, find a bucket to use.

Never try to dump water by lifting-up one side of the dinghy. This is ineffective, dangerous to you (sprained back or fall overboard), and puts stresses on the dinghy for which it is not designed (whether it touches the float or not.)

Likewise, do not try to drag the dinghy onto the float with water in it. This also may cause harmful stresses, or damage the float or dinghy and cause leaking; again you may get hurt if doing it alone.

Oars & lifejackets have a storage area in the clubhouse, and they should be returned there if it is unlikely anyone else will use them soon [always return them during the week, or in the evening].

Do not leave oars in the oarlocks of unattended dinghies at the dock or at the mooring [or in towed dinghies] since a wave or wake could cause the loss of one, or one could catch on another object and be broken. This is not a theoretcal admonition - it has happened!.

Check the condition of lifejackets before and after use; report damage to the Fleet Captain. Maryland & Federal rules require one life jacket in the dinghy for each person.

Check kapok lifejackets for leaks by squeezing each pad gently and listening for air leaks: If a lifejacket leaks it should not be used and must be discarded.

If there is significant damage, such as missing or unlockable straps, it should not be used.

Damaged lifejackets must be replaced by the Fleet Captain; therefore put a note in the logbook, including the number (#) of the lifejacket. Call the Fleet Captain, if possible.

Note: The club has a couple of child- & infant-rated life jackets that could be loaned in a pinch; they are located somewhere in the clubhouse, separate from the regular adult ones. When the last one is not returned, they will not be replaced.

Any losses or damage to any dinghies, oars or equipement should be entered in the logbook and reported to the Fleet Captain.

The club also has two aluminum [14'] utility boats, and an aluminum [16'] workboat. These are used for maintenance of moorings and waterfront structures (dock & ramp), usually during work sessions; they are also available to perform emergency towing operations for patrons.

Much of the Safety, Rowing, and Useage instructions, above, also apply to the use of these boats. The exceptions, include the following:

• These boats bear Army or Md registrations and may be used with an appropriately-sized outboard.

• These boats are not authorized to be used away from SIBO or for any personal use.

• These boats are constructed with drain holes in the stern - Check that the drain plug is in before launching.

• These boats are stored on their own trailer and are launched at the ramp.

• Since these boats are wider than the dinghies, they use 7' oars instead of 6' oars. These oars are stored in the equipement shed, along with extra lifejackets, lengths of rope, mooring repair parts, and tools.

• Pre-launch checks:
  • Drain plug in
  • Oars
  • Lifejackets - one for each person who might be aboard
  • Engine, secured with safety lanyard
  • Gas
  • Bailer(s)
  • Bow & Stern Painters (ropes) - bow attached to trailer
  • Equipement & tools required for job
  • Trailer tires inflated
  • Check trailer & boat for wasp nests

COMMUNICATIONS:

Omissions or errors in this memo should be reported to the Fleet Captain or Mooring Committee or Webmaster.

BOAT SPECIFICATONS:

Key:	LOA=length overall	d=distance measured from stern
	B=beam	H=height(bottom to gunwale)
	W=Weight	f=freeboard (water to gunwale)

** Spring 2000 - Purchased 3 new aluminum dinghies; #21-23.

* 2001 - Scrapped/turned-in 4 fiberglass dinghies, #12, 13, 16, 17.
Reason: High maintenance costs & weight; replacements available.

Historical Note

Modifications to 12' fiberglass [F/G] dinghies (completed 1996):

Initial Conditions: All F/G dinghies had patches over leaks & dings.
In addition, all 12' dinghies developed horizontal cracks in the sides about 6" below the gunwales, in the vicinity of the oarlocks. The glassed-in seats were coming loose, & the gunwales damaged.

Modifications of the 12' dinghies consisted of

1. Pop-riveting & glassing the seats in place.
2. Laying several layers of glass outside (& partially, inside) of the horizontal cracks, amidships.
3. Applying heavy glass/resin re-inforcement of the inside from the oarlocks to the bottom.
4. Repair of the gunwales with several layers of F/G, especially around the oarlocks.
5. Installation of a wooden framework amidships (floorboards & 4 pairs of ribs, all tied together with bolts) to prevent flexing of the sides & bottom.
6. F/G repair of other topside cracks & holes.
7. F/G repair of the bottom to prevent leaks, not to strengthen.
   However, in some cases, the poor condition of old patches required complete stripping & replacement.
8. Replacement of oarlocks.
9. Complete painting & stencilling.
10. Installation of fendering material on bow & sides.
11. Attaching new painters.
12. Installation of flotation foam in the center seat, formerly a bait box.
13. Replacement of wooden center seat (top of bait box), as necessary.

Weight of the modified dinghy increased by approx. 70 lbs., mostly amidships to slightly aft of amidships. The uncrewed trim did not change appreciably.
However, the bow seat should not be used; because of the reduced floatation due to the narrower beam there.

14' Utility Boats -

• #19, U.S.ARMY # WG0083, APG Ser.# SEAJ5875M82A
• #20, U.S.ARMY # WG0084, APG Ser.# SEAJ5889M82A

sharp prow, higher freeboard, used for general work, including towing, rescue, work at a distance or in rough weather.

16' Work Boat (#10 MD-2166-AW, white/orange/brown) jon boat

CAPACITY PLATE: 5 persons/715-lbs incl eng. or 1015-lbs & 35-hp eng.
Landau Boat Co., C.J.Heck Co., PO box #750, Lebanon, Missouri 65536
HULL ID: LBO18050C585,
flat bottom, square bow, low freeboard, used primarily for mooring maintenance due to stability

12' Aluminum Dinghy (#21, 22, 23; unregistered, dark brown/khaki) jon boat.

CAPACITY PLATE: 3 persons or 340 lbs; 500 lbs persons, motor, gear; 10 hp motor; Lowe Aluminum Boats, Lebanon, Mo. 65536; Model L1236.
["U.S.Army SIBO NAF" etched on forward seat]
Nominal Specs: LOA = 12'; Beam = 4.7'; Weight = 155#, Gauge = .05"
Hull Serial numbers

• #21: 0MCL0609C000
• #22: 0MCL0310C000
• #23: 0MCL0607C000

Purchased Spring 2000 from Imperial Marine, Rt.40, White Marsh, Md.

COMMUNICATIONS:

Omissions or errors in this memo should be reported to the Fleet Captain or Mooring Committee or Webmaster.